In light of the recent meat mislabelling scandals, I think that it is high time for South Africans to address their meat-eating habits. No, don’t worry, I’m not going to try to convince everyone to go vegetarian – it’s not feasible and frankly, though I am a vegetarian, I hate vegevangelists (those vegetarians who try to convince you that you’re a terrible person for eating meat and quote horrible stats over your bacon). However, South Africa’s meat eating is getting out of hand, and the meat mislabelling scandal, in which various meats such as donkey, goat and waterbuffalo were found to be unlisted ingredients in many meat products, only serves to highlight this.
What scared me about the scandal is that it was a university study, rather than consumers, that noticed that meat products in South Africa were not what they seemed. People would happily have gone on eating donkey and goat in their burgers instead of beef without being any the wiser. The conclusion is that South Africans simply consume rather than savour meat, without tasting that what they are eating is not what it is labelled to be, and is filled with fillers, additives and preservatives.
According to Cape Town chef Martin Mossmer, the problem lies with the average South African’s attitude toward meat: meat is seen as an essential part of every meal, and without meat, a meal is seen more as a ‘snack’ than anything else. “People need to see something like a steak as a luxury, not an everyday meal. An excellent quality steak once a month is much better than something of poor quality every day”. People buy cheap meat because they see it as part of their staple diet, and consequently, according to Mossmer, “People’s meat eating habits are just habits, people buy because they’re used to it. They have it because they’re used to having it. The main reason they choose meat is because of the price, not the quality, cut or provenance.”
An overabundance of meat in diets has been linked to heart disease, cholesterol problems and obesity. South Africa is already the third fattest nation on earth, a shocking statistic which is only going to get worse if we don’t address our meat obsession. Buying meat every day, even if it is on special, costs a bundle, and in these lean times, can we really afford it?
According to master butcher Peter Logue of Super Meat Market in Kenilworth, people used to buy quality meat once or twice a week from their local butcher. Once supermarkets started selling meat, however, consumers stopped coming to butcheries as this meant an unnecessary extra shopping trip. Supermarkets became a “one stop shop”. The problem with this, according to Logue, is that supermarkets are much more profit driven, and are willing to cut corners to make more money in ways that established butcheries are not. This means that fillers, MSG, additives and preservatives (among other things) are used to increase bulk, flavour and shelflife, resulting in a better profit, but not a better product.
The answer to improving your health, waistline and pocket is to eat better quality meat, but less often. To be sure of good quality meat which is correctly labelled and uncontaminated, avoid processed, pre-packaged meat like cheap sausages, burgers and polony, as they carry the highest risk of additives and substitutions. Mossmer suggests that people shop at butcheries, rather than supermarkets, for their meat, as “Any decent butcher will have better meat than a supermarket, by and large.”
Cost is usually quoted as the reason for buying cheap meat at supermarkets, but according to Mossmer, this is a fallacy: “Generally, what I get from the butcher is the same price or less than the supermarket.” So if you’re on a budget, butcheries are definitely still a realistic option. To make your money stretch a little further, Mossmer suggests quality cured meat, such as bacon, as it is relatively cheap, has a strong flavour, and lasts a long time. It can be cubed up and added to various dishes such as soups, stews and pastas, and lends a rich, meaty flavour without demanding much actual meat.
In terms of cuts, generally the forequarter of beef is cheaper, and can be delicious when cooked slowly. Mossmer suggests brisket as a flavoursome but affordable cut. “Another good one to go for is thick flank, or bolo, for long stewing.” Stews are just what will be on demand in Cape Town’s cold winter months, but if you’re unsure of how to cook different cuts of meat, a good butcher, such as Logue, can give you advice: “We are able to tell you how to cook [the meat], like the traditional English butchers”.
As a beginner’s guide to good butcheries, Mossmer has made a list of his Cape Town favourites:
Super Meat Market – Tel: 021 797 5595
Black Forest Butchery – Tel: 021 762 4874
Blaauwberg Meat Specialities – Tel: 021 703 9553
The Fat German Butchery – Tel: 021 712 1933
Raith Gourmet – Tel: 021 465 2729 / 465 6396
Further afield is the Joostenberg Butchery (Tel 021 884 4206), known by food obsessed Capetonians as a haven for pork-lovers. And for sausages, there’s Rudi’s Sausage Deli in Gordon’s Bay (+27 (0) 82 874 9811), which has stalls at various food markets around Cape Town.
Mossmer’s parting words: “You can afford to eat whatever meat you want, just not huge piles of it. Go for quality, not quantity, as with everything. Appreciate it for what it is, and rather have a small amount of good meat than a large pile of cheap, substandard, chewy protein.”
mediagourmand 